A Tense Week

Here´s my journal entry from yesterday that I´d like to share. If it´s confusing and you want to learn more, there´s a link below to an article that explains the facts and reality better than any other that I´ve come across.

“The dogs can even feel the tension in Bolívia today. They´re barking like crazy. I´m up here on the terrace of our building and there are loud sounds coming out of various corners of the city – flares, firecrackers, gunshots – who knows?! The news isn´t even on to inform us from whatever point of view they feel like sharing. I feel unsettled inside, but more out of empathy than for fear of my own safety. I just looked up and there is a big cloud of dark smoke billowing from the southern zone around Laguna Alalay...

Things have heated up in the country over the last 5 days or so. What has been brewing and stewing beneath is starting to bubble to the surface. It´s so confusing to figure out exactly what´s going on when you´re listening in your second language and you don`t have the history of it all down. Basically, my understanding is that it has to do with the increasing disconnection and disagreement between 5 states and the national government over the content of the new constitution that is in process as well as increasing repression of free speech and other factors. I do know that Manfred (the Cocha state governor) is speaking out against Evo (the president) with plenty of threats, there were dogs hung as a threat for what is to come, people killed, prisoners escaping, a police-less city in Sucre, and the roads are blocked here in Cocha today to stand in solidarity with what happend in Sucre/Chicisaqua over the weekend. My co-workers told me that it would be best to stay in my house today just in case, but some lives seem to be moving along as normal. Our office at the Foundación is closed today.

Maybe this is just a tiny bit what it might feel like to live in Palestine or Sri Lanka, or... My host mom wants to stock up on flour, sugar, and water just in case, but she doesn´t have the cash flow to buy in quantity. Maybe the Christmas season will hold us back from a civil war, but any kind of dialogue seems unlikely when people are used to solving conflicts with rocks, tear gas, and direct physical confrontation. If Evo doesn´t stop demonizing the Press and if the Constitutional Assembly doesnt agree to return to session after what happened last weekend in Sucre, who knows what all the frustration and emotion here that you can almost taste will come to?

There´s a tension in my gut in worrying about my Bolivian friends and family, for whom this is their daily reality. They can´t just escape to the US like I´ll be doing in the next couple of weeks, counting this as one of many experiences rather than my day-to-day life. It takes courage, though, to live in such uncertain times whether you´re used to it or not."

Pray for peace. Give thanks. And remember what daily life means for so many around our world.

Three Dead in Capital Conflict – Andean Information Network
http://ain-bolivia.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=107&Itemid=32

PS: As of today, things went over quietly and peacefully in the strike yesterday. Life has returned to normal here in Cochabamba. Solutions were hardly brought to the table, though, and the division here continues….

The Coca Conflict

It was neat to spend time in the Chapare region, the very area I studied just over a year ago when I was starting my MSW. My reading, writing, and presenting about the situation facing Bolivian coca growers and the injustice and misdirection of the US War on Drugs at U of M is what keyed me in to Bolivia in the first place. The FSD mid-term trip allowed me the chance to learn about the reality of coca production and its´ impacts and implications in this moment in time from coca growers and agronimists themselves living in this reality every day.

Just to make sure we´re all on the same page, coca (the leaf of the plant pictured above) is one of the ingredients used to make cocaine and also a very important indigenous herb used for everything from textiles to teas in the Andean region. It´s an ancient crop that has proven to help with arthritis, altitude sickness, hunger, and stomach ailments for centuries. Whereas the US has invested millions of dollars over the past 1o years in trying to reduce coca leaf production through forced eradication and alternative development programs, coca continues to be produced at the same levels because the demand (for cocaine) is stronger than ever.

Whereas coca used to be very much a licit product for domestic use within Bolivia, cocaine production and even consumption is now a growing problem as the leaf has been criminalized and the demand for the drug has risen. Coca still pays a grower more than $8,000 per hectare than the next most lucrative crop. I can hardly blame a grower who is desperate to feed his or her family and provide them with opportunities such as education from planting to most lucrative crop he or she can. Plus it´s easy as heck to grow and harvest! Afterall, tons of farmers in the US are planting fields and fields of corn because it pays to do so as well! So, why does our government, then, continue to pour money into forced eradication rather than refocus the efforts towards those that are actually manufacturing the drug and those who are consuming the drug???? If you kill the demand, you don`t have to keep killing the livelihoods of campesinos. Not only is the current strategy not working, but it´s causing a lot of harm in terms of livelihoods and civil unrest here in Bolivia. As the President of Bolivia, Evo Morales, a former cocalero himself has been quoted, "Yes to Coca, No to Cocaine". It´s a fine line that I hope this country can successfully tread in order to maintain it´s culture and economy while also not supporting the international drug trade. The last thing the poorest country in S. America needs to continue to be a part of is the illicit drug market...

Would love to hear of any thoughts, questions, or feedback you have on this.

Giving Thanks

Yesterday was just a normal, old workday in Bolivia. I spent the morning here in the office trying to distract myself from thinking too much about what I was missing at home - the annual Turkey Trot, lots of food and good conversation, our circle of thanks, and the always present food coma. I never knew how hard it would be to be away from family and friends for what is the most meaningful holiday of the year for me. I miss you all very much and am very grateful for your friendship and love.

I was able to give my host family small little tokens of thanks at lunch yesterday, so that felt good and I think they liked them. Considering Katie immediately had glitter glue all over her fingers, Bubi was pinching us with his new multitool, and Susi immediately replaced her old cooking mit by hanging her new one in its´ place, I´d consider the gifts that I chose for them before meeting them a resounding success. I spent the remainder of my afternoon inventing a recipe for stuffing since I didn´t have a few of the key ingredients and shopping for just the right kind of potato to try to make mashed potatoes that come close to matching my mom´s. In the end, I bought potatoes meant for french fries (so my host mom informed me as I began boiling them), but after taste testing the finished product this morning with Katie, she approved, so I think I´m set for tonight. Tonight´s the first annual FSD Thanksgiving complete with Turkey and all the dressings! I here we´re expecting 23 guest! We´re aiming to offer it as a thanks to our families which should be neat. Unfortunately, my family can´t make it as the oldest daughter is defending her thesis this afternoon and there is a special dinner at my house for her this very same night. Bummer... but I hope to drag along some co-workers with me:)

We´ll see if the coworkers are up for it, though... It´s just that I´m especially giving thanks after all that happened to us and many others in this very rainy city last night. Basically the streets in the southern zone (poorer, crowded, migrant communities) turned to rivers last night. The sewer system couldn´t handle the rains that fell and neither could many of the hillsides. We drove down many a street that seemed fine until the water became knee or at times almost waste deep. Hundreds of cars like ours were desperately in search of somewhat passable roads. There is no disaster plan in place and few police or firepeople that spring into action in these situations, especially for citizens of the southern zone. People were emptying their houses with buckets as we passed. Small children dressed in plastic bags were playing in the sewage-filled runoff at 11PM at night. Everyone was soaking wet and it was cold. In a way it reminded me of Cincinnati during a heavy snowstorm except most of us have dependable assistance like police and snowplows, weather and road reports, clothes for the weather, home insurance, etc... There´s nothing like that here.

After 2 hours in the car of what should have been a 20 minute trip, we arrived at my dry 4th floor apartment safe and sound. The roads in the northern zone were as normal as any other night. I awoke to the news this morning that two children drowned last night. The environmental racism that I witnessed first hand last night, the desperation of people trying to save their homes, was so shocking I almost feel numb. I didn´t feel scared for my own life, but my heart aches for those who are not as fortunate as me. I will most definitely bring this experience to our circle of thanks this evening in a beautiful home in the northern zone. It is a Thanksgiving that I will certainly never forget.

A Taste of the Bolivian Jungle

The mid term trip to El Chapáre with the other volunteers was this weekend and it was an awesome mix of relaxation and learning. We had great weather and a pool to jump in when it was too hot and humid. We were able to visit some agriculture-related projects (which I loved, of course) as well as do some hiking, swimming, and lots of eating fresh fish.

One of the best parts of the experience for me (other than holding a monkey!) was learning about the situation involving coca production in the region. I will do a separate entry on coca in the near future just because it definitely deserves the spotlight on it´s own. The controversy is multi-faceted and very heated.

It was refreshing as always to get out of the city for a bit especially to reflect as I enter my last month here. It´s hard to believe that my time is already winding down... I want to take this opportunity to wish you a wonderful and safe Thanksgiving. I know I am thankful for you and your support. More very soon!

Bush or Tree???

OK, this is a quiz cause I´m a dork and I was really excited to learn (and share) this...

¿¿¿¿So, does a pinapple grow on a tree or a bush?????

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Check it out for yourself below!

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Bueno, so now you know if you didn´t already. It´s definitely a bush. I wish I could give you a taste of the piñas down in the these parts cause they are absolutely incredible right off the bush. This picture was taken along side a piña packing factory we visited this weekend while in the Chapáre.

Monkey in my lap! AHHH!

I was pretty much beside myself to have this capuchin monkey hop on to my lap to cuddle... Too bad we didn´t get pictures when she was looking under my shirt and trying to take stuff out of my pockets or when another monkey decided that my head looked like a good place to sit;) We were at Parque Machia, a refuge and rehabilitation center for wild animals who were caught in the black market or kept as pets. We were able to spend time with the monkies, parrots, tortoises, capybaras, and even the rare Andean bears. We hear that there are also puma´s but we didn´t catch a glimpse as it was the middle of the afternoon. What I liked best about the park was the fact that it is set in the jungle without fences or walls, so the animals are free to roam and only have to stay if they want to. The sad thing is that most do stay because they are so accustomed to being fed by humans that they´ve lost their ability to survive in the wild.

A Dancing and Party Weekend with Pretty Feet

Some of the guys getting ready to perform, Tinku, my favorite. Partly because of the awesome costumes...

There´s always a party in this town, whether it´s at my house or in the streets, these people know how to have fun. Saturday was La Entrada (or parade) for the main public university here in Cochabamba, Universidad San Simon. That meant an eight our long parade and all the food and beverages you could hope for being sold and consumed right on the street. I was able to go with one of my co-workers, Verónica, which was awesome. I love the folkloric dancing here, so many different types and amazing costumes. I only wish I had some time to learn some of the dances myself...

After La Entrada, Veró and I met up with some other co-workers for what would become a very exciting night. As far as I knew, we were just going to a club to dance for a bit, which is a favorite pasttime here. Little did I know that one of the most famous folkloric bands in Bolivia, Negro Palma, would be performing and that WE would be backstage with them enjoying dinner, beverages, and dancing!!! I had know idea that one of my co-workers wives is the agent for ALL of the big folkloric music groups in the country, so people from the Fundación always get to hang out with the groups. Before I knew it, we were up on the stage dancing and I was dancing like a mad woman. It was SUCH a fun night! And the group´s coming back to town on the 22nd, so I´ll be sure to be there again. Nothing like a completely free and fun night with a bunch of nice and famous dudes:)

And then Sunday was Katie´s First Communion for which we had a party and lunch in the morning after the mass and another gathering for dinner that night. Cochambambinos like their food and they like to chat. After all was said and done, it was a great weekend for my Spanish and to realize how many Bolivian friends I´m lucky enough to have.

Me, Susi, Ale, Katie, Y Pame (my host fam minus Bubi) at the party celebrating Katie´s First Communion

Oh, and I have pretty feet now after my first pedicure!!!! Here´s a peak in case you´re interested;) If you´re one of those funny people who don´t like feet, I´d stop now if I were you...

The craziest week yet!

ProHabitat is a happenin´ place and by that I mean that there is never a dearth of things going on in the wild little office of ours! And it ends up that this was my week to go crazy with activities. We all have our turn, I guess, and my turn doesn´t come nearly as often as the others, so I consider myself lucky. The staff was also incredibly supportive of me this week, which was absolutely both necessary and wonderful.

Just for a little background since I realized recently that I never really provided an brief picture of what the organization does. Small details like that would help... So basically, La Fundación ProHabitat is a non profit with a focus on assisting and accompanying people in the department of Cochabamba with securing a right to dignified home. Many people in this region, and all throughout Bolivia for that matter, continue to live in huts and adobe homes without basic services like water, electricity, and plumbing. The Foundation enters communities only when asked, both rural and peri-urban (like the Southern Zone of Cocha), to provide assistance in a variety of ways depending on what´s requested - that could be credit for building or improving the home, plumbing workshops, capacitation workshops for the community leaders, practical workshops on health and hygiene, assistance in advocating for the right to basic services, or facilitating youth groups! It´s a team of 10 at FPH and they do a TON of good around these parts!

The part I´m mainly working in, with youth groups, began for two reasons. First of all, FPH was struggling to find, encourage, and train competent and reliable leaders for many communities while they also noticed youth just peaking in the windows of community meetings, without a space to participate. In order to capacitate the next generation of community leaders and provide a positive outlet for the youth, FPH solicited funds from OXFAM-GB and here we are! So, my main project is to conduct a participatory evaluation at the end of year one and this week held the majority of my info gathering workshops, which were a bit chaotic, but successful overall (I sure hope!). Here´s hoping that we gathered the information needed to move forward proving impacts and assessing needed improvements. The hit was definitely the oatmeal chocolate chip cookies I whipped up as a thank you:) The kids are convinced that I could open a very successful line of cookies and some even offerred to work for me!

My other project with some of the grant funds I have is to increase food security in one particular community through the planting of fruit trees. This is what I´m really passionate about since this community is a good way from fresh fruits and vegetables and many families also have few resources to afford such foods on a regular basis. After some complications, we´ll finally be buying and planting the first round of plum, peach, pomegranate, and grapes this coming Thursday! I´ll be sure to post photos of this. Depending on funding and the agreement we come to with the promatores (promoters) of family gardens in this community, there may also be a partnership between the youth group and the promotores to plant the main road in the community with fruit trees. We all agree it would be beautiful, but we have to figure out how to make it sustainable... We just have to agree on who is going to water and care for them to ensure they are protected and that the community uses the fruit. My hope is that a core group of youth from our group will be interested in taking this on...! Updates to come on this for sure.

Alright, well this kid is off for the first pedicure of her life after a stressful week! I hope you are well and I look forward to hearing stories from your life soon! Be well!

Dia de Los Muertos

Julianne, Meredith, and I headed out the same bumpy road on Thursday night to a town called Anzaldo to experience the rural version of Dia de los Muertos since our families were not commemorating the occasion. Anzaldo is the town where our FSD director´s family is from and where one former volunteer is still living and working. So we crashed with Rob (to his surprise). When there´s only one phone for the whole town, it´s pretty hard to warn him ahead of time. Luckily he was at the house when we got there and after sharing egg sandwiches for dinner, we set out to find a band of ´roving prayers´ to tag along with. We first found a group of 8-10 year old boys who allowed these crazy gringos to join in complete with teaching us the prayers. But then we found some of Rob´s friends in the town who were also visiting houses to pray for the recently deceased so we opted for a group more our own age. At each house, the equivalent of a rosary was shared in front of an alter of sorts built for all those who had passed away in the past year. The table was covered in food that the deceased person enjoyed as well as flowers and photos. After praying, each family offerred mountains of food and alcohol in thanks for the visit. So, needless to say, we had our fair share of alcohol (chicha - the local corn fermented drink poured out of a bucket and into carved out coconut shells). The mayor, who was part of our group, insisted on still driving his truck full of 20 mostly drunk men on windy roads, but me and a few other smart folks opted for walking in this tiny town. At the end of the night, in front of the church in the main plaza, Rob´s Bolivian friends from the town offerred prayers and songs to Rob´s grandmother who´d passed away a week before. It was a nice gesture. If only the mayor wouldn´t have ranted for about 30 minutes after that about how beautiful and sweet the 3 gringas were in front of 20 other young men... Needless to say, I walked away in the middle of his ¨speech¨ because I didn´t want to think that it was cool to talk like that to women, drunk or not. Overall, I´m glad I went to drink the local drink, offer respects to the deceased, and to better understand the celebration. I could always do with out machismo, though...

Dinosaur Footprints, Caves, Canyons, and Felix

Yes, those are dinosaur footprints and yes, Julianne and Felix are pretending to be dinosaurs:)

A short rest in one of the many dry and geologically fascinating river channels

Caving was a beautiful 4 hour challenge complete with blind fish, forests of stalagtites, and lots of ups and downs

It was a wonderful adventure to Parque Nacional Toro Toro last weekend. A break from the bustling city is always welcome... Every day in the park tested my strength and my fear of heights that just won´t quit. We hiked 25-30K over the 2 1/2 days in a desert like climate amongst spiny plants, goats, plenty of sun, and of course, lots of DINOSAUR FOOTPRINTS! I was enchanted by the place in all of it´s geological and archeological wonder as well as our delightful guide, Felix. He´s a native of Toro Toro and just a genuine lover of life. He shared his stomping grounds with us with such joy and energy that it was contagious. At 20 years of age, he´s the president of the guide association, the local electrician, environmental organizer for the town, and much more. All of this and he was raised by his 8 year old brother after his parents passed away when he was 3 years old... With his guidance we found a tropical waterfall in the base of a steep canyon, cave drawings dating back to the year 1000, four-colored parrots, and even a petrified nail of a velociraptor! The visit was topped off with a visit to a women´s weaving cooperative where I was finally able to find a fair trade product made with natural dies by the woman who sold me the product. All is all it was incredible weekend in a well kept secret of a park 5 hours down a VERY bumpy road.