As I´m currently locked INSIDE my office during lunch hour, I figure I´d try to do something productive, like take this opportunity to set aside my list of to do´s and reflect for a minute. After all, I haven´t had a chance to slow down over the last 10 days or so, as I´m trying to wrap up all the loose ends during my last days here in Cocha. This week, I have to print the final draft of my (20 pages in Spanish!) sistematization report, finish translating and turn in a proposal to the UN for my organization, do my tree planting, help with a museum field trip with the youth, cook a nice thank you lunch for family, attend a graduation, oh, and dancing on Friday night, of course;) It´s a whirlwind, yes, but everything has gone better than I ever could have imagined. I came down with tons of anxiety and uncertainties, and although I still have tons of questions about what this all has meant, I´m heading home a more well-rounded, confident, and capable Molly which is a priceless gain in just short of 4 months. I have to admit, I´m quite sad to leave this place - the meaningful work, generous friends and family, the Spanish conversation, and all the unexpected surprises that constantly arise everywhere I turn - but I´m trying to trust that the unknown holds something very special for me. I´m forever grateful for the support I´ve received from family and friends both here and up North. I´ll hope to see and or talk to you very, very soon.
OK, someone just opened the door downstairs. I´m gonna take this chance to escape and get something to eat!
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
The Greening of Maria Auxiliadora
After lots of prep, bumps in the road, and even tears on my part, we will be planting 17 beautiful, flowering Qucarda trees along the main road of the community where I´ve had the honor of doing most of my work, the cooperativa Maria Auxiliadora!!! And by we, I mean more than 12 youth from our youth group as well as the promotoras of family gardens in the community (bringing together the two groups I´ve been working with most intensely over the past few months). It was a dream of mine and several others to add some plants to this community plagued by dust and erosion to beautify and add shade where there isn´t much. Now, the holes are dug and the doubters have pretty much been convinced that trees are a good thing. I tell you, it´s an uphill battle when the culture of caring for the environment and volunteering hardly exists in any of the generations... But I´m thrilled that it´s gonna come through on my second last day of work thanks to the cooperation of so many. I only wish I had several more months to dedicate myself to building environmental consciousness here, but I´ll have to just carry that mission with me wherever I go and keep holding out hope... I´ll be sure to post photos after the event!
Thursday, December 6, 2007
In Search of Snow
So, I was supposed to be burying myself in drafting my systematization report yesterday morning since I only have a week left of work to provide a finished copy, but instead I decided to leap at the offer to head to into the mountains with my family. I´m weak for anything that involves mountains and leaving computer work behind… After all, word had it that some of the peaks were snow-covered and my little host sister and her friend wanted to get to snow for the first time! How could I pass this up! You only live once, right?! All I know is that there´s nothing like a spontaneous Wednesday morning jaunt! Since I´m the only one in the fam that has a job or school at this point, Wednesday morning´s just as good an option at Saturday or Sunday anyway. Both Bubi and Susi told me separately that we´d be back NO LATER THAN 1PM, which perfectly fit with my need to get to the office in the afternoon to plan this weekend´s tree planting with my co-worker, so off we went!
I should have known better than to think that things would go as planned since they rarely ever seem to here. The first sign that something was up should have been the road littered with BIG rocks from a landslide just on the outskirts of the city. 6 of the 7 of us climbed out to move the boulders to the side so we could pass and keep climbing up the muddy trail of a road. Ends up that was just the first of many times we´d have to get out of the car whether it be to push or just to lighten the load so that poor car could get up the next hill. There were beautiful waterfalls flowing over the road at different points (from all of the melted snow) and llamas grazing all over the place.
I should have known better than to think that things would go as planned since they rarely ever seem to here. The first sign that something was up should have been the road littered with BIG rocks from a landslide just on the outskirts of the city. 6 of the 7 of us climbed out to move the boulders to the side so we could pass and keep climbing up the muddy trail of a road. Ends up that was just the first of many times we´d have to get out of the car whether it be to push or just to lighten the load so that poor car could get up the next hill. There were beautiful waterfalls flowing over the road at different points (from all of the melted snow) and llamas grazing all over the place.
Only 20 miles or so outside of Cocha...
LLAMAS! LLAMAS! LLAMAS!
For all that effort, other than the craggy peaks who had there fair share of unreachable snow, we only came across two or three patches of the white stuff each smaller than your mattress or bedroom window. Although the girls were disappointed at first, I´m proud to say that we used ALL the snow we could scrape off the ground for quite the Midwestern style snowball fight. There was a lot of giggling and cold hands. Bubi topped it off by busting out his parachute which we did more of a photo shoot with rather than actual flying (which was alright by me).
Us and our snow!
After finding some snow at last, we got lost a few times on entirely unmarked roads in the middle of nowhere before coasting without any gas for the last 45 minutes – it was a damn good thing we had a mountain to descend! After we were lucky enough to find a (natural) gas station for a fill up at the bottom of the mountain, we got home just short of 6PM. Surviving 8 hours in a tiny car on bread, bananas, and coffee sure made us ready for some dinner when we got home. I love unexpected adventures!
All I know is that I´ll be really glad I went as long as we can still plant trees this weekend, as long as finish my report on time, and as long as my co-worker forgives me for being a no-call, no-show, not so dependable staff member… Good thing I don´t have a paycheck riding on the line:)
Thursday, November 29, 2007
A Tense Week
Here´s my journal entry from yesterday that I´d like to share. If it´s confusing and you want to learn more, there´s a link below to an article that explains the facts and reality better than any other that I´ve come across.
“The dogs can even feel the tension in Bolívia today. They´re barking like crazy. I´m up here on the terrace of our building and there are loud sounds coming out of various corners of the city – flares, firecrackers, gunshots – who knows?! The news isn´t even on to inform us from whatever point of view they feel like sharing. I feel unsettled inside, but more out of empathy than for fear of my own safety. I just looked up and there is a big cloud of dark smoke billowing from the southern zone around Laguna Alalay...
Things have heated up in the country over the last 5 days or so. What has been brewing and stewing beneath is starting to bubble to the surface. It´s so confusing to figure out exactly what´s going on when you´re listening in your second language and you don`t have the history of it all down. Basically, my understanding is that it has to do with the increasing disconnection and disagreement between 5 states and the national government over the content of the new constitution that is in process as well as increasing repression of free speech and other factors. I do know that Manfred (the Cocha state governor) is speaking out against Evo (the president) with plenty of threats, there were dogs hung as a threat for what is to come, people killed, prisoners escaping, a police-less city in Sucre, and the roads are blocked here in Cocha today to stand in solidarity with what happend in Sucre/Chicisaqua over the weekend. My co-workers told me that it would be best to stay in my house today just in case, but some lives seem to be moving along as normal. Our office at the Foundación is closed today.
Maybe this is just a tiny bit what it might feel like to live in Palestine or Sri Lanka, or... My host mom wants to stock up on flour, sugar, and water just in case, but she doesn´t have the cash flow to buy in quantity. Maybe the Christmas season will hold us back from a civil war, but any kind of dialogue seems unlikely when people are used to solving conflicts with rocks, tear gas, and direct physical confrontation. If Evo doesn´t stop demonizing the Press and if the Constitutional Assembly doesnt agree to return to session after what happened last weekend in Sucre, who knows what all the frustration and emotion here that you can almost taste will come to?
There´s a tension in my gut in worrying about my Bolivian friends and family, for whom this is their daily reality. They can´t just escape to the US like I´ll be doing in the next couple of weeks, counting this as one of many experiences rather than my day-to-day life. It takes courage, though, to live in such uncertain times whether you´re used to it or not."
Pray for peace. Give thanks. And remember what daily life means for so many around our world.
Three Dead in Capital Conflict – Andean Information Network
http://ain-bolivia.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=107&Itemid=32
PS: As of today, things went over quietly and peacefully in the strike yesterday. Life has returned to normal here in Cochabamba. Solutions were hardly brought to the table, though, and the division here continues….
“The dogs can even feel the tension in Bolívia today. They´re barking like crazy. I´m up here on the terrace of our building and there are loud sounds coming out of various corners of the city – flares, firecrackers, gunshots – who knows?! The news isn´t even on to inform us from whatever point of view they feel like sharing. I feel unsettled inside, but more out of empathy than for fear of my own safety. I just looked up and there is a big cloud of dark smoke billowing from the southern zone around Laguna Alalay...
Things have heated up in the country over the last 5 days or so. What has been brewing and stewing beneath is starting to bubble to the surface. It´s so confusing to figure out exactly what´s going on when you´re listening in your second language and you don`t have the history of it all down. Basically, my understanding is that it has to do with the increasing disconnection and disagreement between 5 states and the national government over the content of the new constitution that is in process as well as increasing repression of free speech and other factors. I do know that Manfred (the Cocha state governor) is speaking out against Evo (the president) with plenty of threats, there were dogs hung as a threat for what is to come, people killed, prisoners escaping, a police-less city in Sucre, and the roads are blocked here in Cocha today to stand in solidarity with what happend in Sucre/Chicisaqua over the weekend. My co-workers told me that it would be best to stay in my house today just in case, but some lives seem to be moving along as normal. Our office at the Foundación is closed today.
Maybe this is just a tiny bit what it might feel like to live in Palestine or Sri Lanka, or... My host mom wants to stock up on flour, sugar, and water just in case, but she doesn´t have the cash flow to buy in quantity. Maybe the Christmas season will hold us back from a civil war, but any kind of dialogue seems unlikely when people are used to solving conflicts with rocks, tear gas, and direct physical confrontation. If Evo doesn´t stop demonizing the Press and if the Constitutional Assembly doesnt agree to return to session after what happened last weekend in Sucre, who knows what all the frustration and emotion here that you can almost taste will come to?
There´s a tension in my gut in worrying about my Bolivian friends and family, for whom this is their daily reality. They can´t just escape to the US like I´ll be doing in the next couple of weeks, counting this as one of many experiences rather than my day-to-day life. It takes courage, though, to live in such uncertain times whether you´re used to it or not."
Pray for peace. Give thanks. And remember what daily life means for so many around our world.
Three Dead in Capital Conflict – Andean Information Network
http://ain-bolivia.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=107&Itemid=32
PS: As of today, things went over quietly and peacefully in the strike yesterday. Life has returned to normal here in Cochabamba. Solutions were hardly brought to the table, though, and the division here continues….
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
The Coca Conflict
It was neat to spend time in the Chapare region, the very area I studied just over a year ago when I was starting my MSW. My reading, writing, and presenting about the situation facing Bolivian coca growers and the injustice and misdirection of the US War on Drugs at U of M is what keyed me in to Bolivia in the first place. The FSD mid-term trip allowed me the chance to learn about the reality of coca production and its´ impacts and implications in this moment in time from coca growers and agronimists themselves living in this reality every day.Just to make sure we´re all on the same page, coca (the leaf of the plant pictured above) is one of the ingredients used to make cocaine and also a very important indigenous herb used for everything from textiles to teas in the Andean region. It´s an ancient crop that has proven to help with arthritis, altitude sickness, hunger, and stomach ailments for centuries. Whereas the US has invested millions of dollars over the past 1o years in trying to reduce coca leaf production through forced eradication and alternative development programs, coca continues to be produced at the same levels because the demand (for cocaine) is stronger than ever.
Whereas coca used to be very much a licit product for domestic use within Bolivia, cocaine production and even consumption is now a growing problem as the leaf has been criminalized and the demand for the drug has risen. Coca still pays a grower more than $8,000 per hectare than the next most lucrative crop. I can hardly blame a grower who is desperate to feed his or her family and provide them with opportunities such as education from planting to most lucrative crop he or she can. Plus it´s easy as heck to grow and harvest! Afterall, tons of farmers in the US are planting fields and fields of corn because it pays to do so as well! So, why does our government, then, continue to pour money into forced eradication rather than refocus the efforts towards those that are actually manufacturing the drug and those who are consuming the drug???? If you kill the demand, you don`t have to keep killing the livelihoods of campesinos. Not only is the current strategy not working, but it´s causing a lot of harm in terms of livelihoods and civil unrest here in Bolivia. As the President of Bolivia, Evo Morales, a former cocalero himself has been quoted, "Yes to Coca, No to Cocaine". It´s a fine line that I hope this country can successfully tread in order to maintain it´s culture and economy while also not supporting the international drug trade. The last thing the poorest country in S. America needs to continue to be a part of is the illicit drug market...
Would love to hear of any thoughts, questions, or feedback you have on this.
Friday, November 23, 2007
Giving Thanks
Yesterday was just a normal, old workday in Bolivia. I spent the morning here in the office trying to distract myself from thinking too much about what I was missing at home - the annual Turkey Trot, lots of food and good conversation, our circle of thanks, and the always present food coma. I never knew how hard it would be to be away from family and friends for what is the most meaningful holiday of the year for me. I miss you all very much and am very grateful for your friendship and love.
I was able to give my host family small little tokens of thanks at lunch yesterday, so that felt good and I think they liked them. Considering Katie immediately had glitter glue all over her fingers, Bubi was pinching us with his new multitool, and Susi immediately replaced her old cooking mit by hanging her new one in its´ place, I´d consider the gifts that I chose for them before meeting them a resounding success. I spent the remainder of my afternoon inventing a recipe for stuffing since I didn´t have a few of the key ingredients and shopping for just the right kind of potato to try to make mashed potatoes that come close to matching my mom´s. In the end, I bought potatoes meant for french fries (so my host mom informed me as I began boiling them), but after taste testing the finished product this morning with Katie, she approved, so I think I´m set for tonight. Tonight´s the first annual FSD Thanksgiving complete with Turkey and all the dressings! I here we´re expecting 23 guest! We´re aiming to offer it as a thanks to our families which should be neat. Unfortunately, my family can´t make it as the oldest daughter is defending her thesis this afternoon and there is a special dinner at my house for her this very same night. Bummer... but I hope to drag along some co-workers with me:)
We´ll see if the coworkers are up for it, though... It´s just that I´m especially giving thanks after all that happened to us and many others in this very rainy city last night. Basically the streets in the southern zone (poorer, crowded, migrant communities) turned to rivers last night. The sewer system couldn´t handle the rains that fell and neither could many of the hillsides. We drove down many a street that seemed fine until the water became knee or at times almost waste deep. Hundreds of cars like ours were desperately in search of somewhat passable roads. There is no disaster plan in place and few police or firepeople that spring into action in these situations, especially for citizens of the southern zone. People were emptying their houses with buckets as we passed. Small children dressed in plastic bags were playing in the sewage-filled runoff at 11PM at night. Everyone was soaking wet and it was cold. In a way it reminded me of Cincinnati during a heavy snowstorm except most of us have dependable assistance like police and snowplows, weather and road reports, clothes for the weather, home insurance, etc... There´s nothing like that here.
After 2 hours in the car of what should have been a 20 minute trip, we arrived at my dry 4th floor apartment safe and sound. The roads in the northern zone were as normal as any other night. I awoke to the news this morning that two children drowned last night. The environmental racism that I witnessed first hand last night, the desperation of people trying to save their homes, was so shocking I almost feel numb. I didn´t feel scared for my own life, but my heart aches for those who are not as fortunate as me. I will most definitely bring this experience to our circle of thanks this evening in a beautiful home in the northern zone. It is a Thanksgiving that I will certainly never forget.
I was able to give my host family small little tokens of thanks at lunch yesterday, so that felt good and I think they liked them. Considering Katie immediately had glitter glue all over her fingers, Bubi was pinching us with his new multitool, and Susi immediately replaced her old cooking mit by hanging her new one in its´ place, I´d consider the gifts that I chose for them before meeting them a resounding success. I spent the remainder of my afternoon inventing a recipe for stuffing since I didn´t have a few of the key ingredients and shopping for just the right kind of potato to try to make mashed potatoes that come close to matching my mom´s. In the end, I bought potatoes meant for french fries (so my host mom informed me as I began boiling them), but after taste testing the finished product this morning with Katie, she approved, so I think I´m set for tonight. Tonight´s the first annual FSD Thanksgiving complete with Turkey and all the dressings! I here we´re expecting 23 guest! We´re aiming to offer it as a thanks to our families which should be neat. Unfortunately, my family can´t make it as the oldest daughter is defending her thesis this afternoon and there is a special dinner at my house for her this very same night. Bummer... but I hope to drag along some co-workers with me:)
We´ll see if the coworkers are up for it, though... It´s just that I´m especially giving thanks after all that happened to us and many others in this very rainy city last night. Basically the streets in the southern zone (poorer, crowded, migrant communities) turned to rivers last night. The sewer system couldn´t handle the rains that fell and neither could many of the hillsides. We drove down many a street that seemed fine until the water became knee or at times almost waste deep. Hundreds of cars like ours were desperately in search of somewhat passable roads. There is no disaster plan in place and few police or firepeople that spring into action in these situations, especially for citizens of the southern zone. People were emptying their houses with buckets as we passed. Small children dressed in plastic bags were playing in the sewage-filled runoff at 11PM at night. Everyone was soaking wet and it was cold. In a way it reminded me of Cincinnati during a heavy snowstorm except most of us have dependable assistance like police and snowplows, weather and road reports, clothes for the weather, home insurance, etc... There´s nothing like that here.
After 2 hours in the car of what should have been a 20 minute trip, we arrived at my dry 4th floor apartment safe and sound. The roads in the northern zone were as normal as any other night. I awoke to the news this morning that two children drowned last night. The environmental racism that I witnessed first hand last night, the desperation of people trying to save their homes, was so shocking I almost feel numb. I didn´t feel scared for my own life, but my heart aches for those who are not as fortunate as me. I will most definitely bring this experience to our circle of thanks this evening in a beautiful home in the northern zone. It is a Thanksgiving that I will certainly never forget.
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
A Taste of the Bolivian Jungle
The mid term trip to El Chapáre with the other volunteers was this weekend and it was an awesome mix of relaxation and learning. We had great weather and a pool to jump in when it was too hot and humid. We were able to visit some agriculture-related projects (which I loved, of course) as well as do some hiking, swimming, and lots of eating fresh fish.
It was refreshing as always to get out of the city for a bit especially to reflect as I enter my last month here. It´s hard to believe that my time is already winding down... I want to take this opportunity to wish you a wonderful and safe Thanksgiving. I know I am thankful for you and your support. More very soon!
One of the best parts of the experience for me (other than holding a monkey!) was learning about the situation involving coca production in the region. I will do a separate entry on coca in the near future just because it definitely deserves the spotlight on it´s own. The controversy is multi-faceted and very heated.
It was refreshing as always to get out of the city for a bit especially to reflect as I enter my last month here. It´s hard to believe that my time is already winding down... I want to take this opportunity to wish you a wonderful and safe Thanksgiving. I know I am thankful for you and your support. More very soon!
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